Nottingham Trent University at Graduate Fashion Week

Nottingham Trent's Graduate Fashion Week show went back to basics and concentrated on the techniques of fashion design and how they can be developed to create new and exciting ideas. The pattern cutting was exquisite, the knitwear was sophisticated and technical and the show as a whole evoked a sense of class.

Beautiful fabrics were chosen by designers such as Rebecca Munn, whose collection was stunning and full of fluid silks and sheer fabrics. Her pattern cutting was second to none, and hints of subtle prints on the bottom of the silk dresses gave the designs another dimension. The collection was accessorised with neon acrylic accessories that gave the colour palette a flicker of bright tones. Beautiful fabrics recurred throughout the Nottingham Trent show, with the collection from Hannah Sharp being in completely black and white but with both horizontal and vertical stripes contrasting with each other, the overall look was amazing. Gathering and pleating added a 3D element and details such as oversized pockets on the back of jackets showcased Hannah's talent for design. 

The menswear collection from Amy Terrell featured some great geometric prints with cube designs that complimented some fantastic tailoring perfectly and concluded with a stunning outfit featuring a soft, fluid jacket with a bold brown and orange print over a polo and skin-tight leggings, accentuating the jacket.

The knitwear throughout the Nottingham show was intricate and well considered. Fine gauge knits were gathered in the collection of Holly Marke to create innovative and creative silhouettes. Subtle metallic and mohair detailing gave the collection a regal sense that was chic and sophisticated. Tamsin Lakhani created knits with delicate stripes and subtle patterns imbedded within that were reminiscent of that of Missoni, with holding checks and geometrics on simple but stunning silhouettes that allowed the knits to speak for themselves. Olivia Williams used a palette of coffee hues within an amazing combination of laser cut leathers and soft knits that provided an impressive contrast of weights and textures.

Lastly, the collection from Yuchi Ozaki had everyone in the audience smiling with it's fun, but perfectly constructed garments. As the models came down the runway, they unzipped their jacket lapel or dress panel to reveal a stunning laser cut or folded fabric underneath, much like a fold out birthday card. The reveal element was so innovative and only enhanced the classic tailoring that Ozaki had to offer.

Nottingham Trent showcased some amazing talent with perfect construction and sophisticated collections. The knitwear was sublime and tailoring was spectacular.

Photographs by Charlotte Headdey

DeMontfort University at Graduate Fashion Week

As soon as we got our tickets for the DeMontfort show, a monochrome graffiti style print coated in plastic and containing polystyrene balls, we expected hyper-modern textiles using found materials and brand new technologies. The students sent their collections down the runway, and that was exactly what we got. The collections from DeMontfort were so on trend for the upcoming seasons, making use of every material possible from plastic to acrylic to metal and putting them all together to create some outstanding looks that were in line with the trends of techno textiles and hyper-modernity that will be hitting London Fashion Week in the next couple of seasons.

The knitwear from the university was supreme. The work of Alison Woodhouse took so many neon tones and put them into designs that were wearable but extremely contemporary. Geometric pattern knits in every colour way possible were put together and combined with stuffed knits that had be plaited together to provide structure and a contrasting texture. The knitwear continued into menswear, where Clare Sant combined textured knits with clashing prints, and even a knit print that gave the collection a more delicate, lightweight edge in comparison to the chunky knits. The colours were predominantly primary and the prints were tribal, creating a fairly ethnic look that worked with the range of textures. Kelli McGuiness brought another new knitwear dimension with knitted hold technique dresses that revealed fun, quirky prints underneath; the combination of print and knit was popular at DeMontfort.

In contrast to the extreme textures and silhouettes of some of the collections, others evoked a softer, refined feel that concentrated on the intricate pattern cutting and panelling of the pieces. Amanda Salway's collection of Menswear featured exquisite Timorous Beasties style prints combined with delicate checks in pastel tones, with unusual sheer fabrics. Denim in tones of ochre and blue brought a new edge to the denim jacket. Nicola Froud continued with the pastel theme, with some interesting layering of skirts over trousers and interesting techniques of pleated fabrics appliquéd on to the front of dresses and jumpers. The collection had a sportswear style influence, but done in a very feminine way.

Lastly, the use of unconventional materials was something that stood out at DeMonfort on the whole. The collection from Charlotte Baty, featuring hundreds of cable ties woven into knit that almost looked like fur was stunning. Plastics were woven together in macrame techniques to create cuffs and neck details. Jade Clark used a whole host of reflective materials from PVC to organza that abstracted the prints beneath them creating a really unusual look. DeMonfort were very impressive in their creation of new looks and techniques and the collections were fresh and exciting.

Photographs by Dani Farrow

Edinburgh College of Art at Graduate Fashion Week

Eerie music filled the room as everyone prepared to see the final collections from the students of Edinburgh School of Art. A model with her face covered steps on to the runway and sets the mood for the first collection of the show. Jacob Birge's collection headed down the runway with a sense of mystery but power as his models walked with their heads covered by fantastic headwear and showcasing his PVC cladded creations.

Themes running through the collections from Edinburgh were that of structure and volume. How this was achieved varied from structured fabrics to an overload of layering but one thing was for sure, bigger is better. The students demonstrated a love for a contrast in materials, combining leather with flowing silks and tailored wovens with PVC panels and metal accessories. The collection from Jacqueline McLardie in particular, provided a host of stunning fluid prints with leather tops and waistcoats constructed with panels of leather that looked almost like an animals shell and gave the impression of armour.

Oversizing was another method of achieving this volume. The menswear collection from Riona Horrox combined unconventional materials into menswear such as fur and oversized everything from shirts to huge puffa jackets that created interesting silhouettes through the use of padding and clever panelling.

The concepts behind the collections at Edinburgh School of Art are clearly very interesting and the students want to make an impact on the industry by creating collections that are refreshing and contemporary. There was masculine womenswear, feminine menswear and a unisex collection, playing on ideas of gender and androgyny and creating a fascinating, diverse showcase of collections.  

Photographs by Charlotte Headdey 

Fashion Films..

 Whether you are in the middle of finishing your final collection, or just starting out as a designer, everyone is looking for that infamous edge that will get you noticed by all the right people. With technology ever-evolving and creating new and exciting portals for showing your designs to the world, fashion films are contemporary way of doing so and many top designers are showing us how it's done.

Business of Fashion have announced their top ten pick of the 'Fashion Films of the Season', and watching them all confirms how inspiring and exciting the evolution of technology can be. One of the top films for Spring/Summer 2012 has to be that of Prada, which depicts a fantasy America in the 1950's. A car radio is tuned into different tracks as the camera settles on different models, the song proposing to match the model and outfit. It is a very clever piece of marketing, whereby viewers with different tastes in music or genres will all enjoy at least some part of the film, making it very effective by widening its target market. The close-up shots in the film focus on the accessories, an important part in this seasons Prada campaign and it gives the film a sense of glamour and luxury.

Another great film is that of Victoria, by Victoria Beckham. Considering Victoria's usually clean cut, sophisticated style, the film is surprising in its mood being fun, playful and quirky. In some ways the film is fairly simple with a quite choppy filming method and its features of torn paper and simple reflections of images, yet it really works and you cannot help but smile when watching. The film has some childish elements which make it yet more endearing and the image of cats is recurring, reflecting the use of them within the prints of the collection.

So whether it be for your current or next collection, make a fashion film that adds a fun, but contemporary edge to your designs and would be sure to grab some attention!

See the films at: http://www.businessoffashion.com/2012/04/fashion-2-0-top-10-fashion-films-of-the-season-6.html